Chinese fast-fashion and e-commerce platforms Temu and Shein are accelerating their expansion in Europe, aiming to offset a slowdown in U.S. markets. However, they now face intensified scrutiny from consumer watchdogs and EU authorities over “dark patterns,” product safety, and escalating customs reforms.

Surge in European sales

Temu’s EU sales soared over 60 percent year-on-year in early May, while Shein grew roughly 50 percent in core markets like the U.K., Germany, France, and Spain. Both companies redirected ad budgets away from the U.S. toward Europe following tightening tariffs and the de minimis customs threshold removal 

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Dark patterns under fire

The pan-European consumer group BEUC has lodged formal complaints against Shein, citing manipulative UI features such as fake pop-ups, low-stock alerts, countdown timers, infinite scrolling, excessive push notifications, and gamified incentives reminiscent of "Puppy Keep" .
Temu faces similar scrutiny under the EU’s Digital Services Act for potentially misleading product design and algorithmic opacity .

Product safety and customs overhaul

Regulators are assessing compliance with product safety standards amid alarms about potentially toxic textiles and counterfeit goods .
EU authorities are also drafting a €2 handling fee on low-cost parcels and scrapping the de minimis exemption under €150, to offset inspection costs and bolster oversight .

Strategic recalibration amid challenges

Temu and Shein have shifted ad spend to France and the U.K., but face significant logistical hurdles, including fragmented regulations, VAT registration, customs duties, and local warehousing challenges .
Questions remain whether these platforms can sustain growth amid compliance demands and rising costs in the EU.

Outlook

The EU’s stepped-up regulatory focus marks a turning point for global e-commerce. Temu and Shein must rapidly adapt their user interfaces, supply chains, and product safety protocols. Pending outcomes from BEUC complaints and customs reforms will be a litmus test for their European strategy.

Source

Temu and Shein pivot to Europe as EU regulators zero in on dark patterns – Reuters & FT summarised